REVIEW: Czech Club Restaurant Ltd., London NW6

I’ve been aware of this Czech restaurant for a few years now, and it had always intrigued me whenever I walked past it. For starters, it’s a house, and furthermore, a house on a very residential road. It’s hardly the sort of location to draw in much passing trade, and despite the large board outside depicting a jolly chef holding the menu, the idea of strolling in seems a little intimidating - because it so very obviously is a house. In my ignorance, I had it down as some sort of slightly sinister Czech ex-pats private members club, where the intrusion of an ignorant Englishman would be treated with suspicion if not downright hostility. How wrong I was!

Admittedly, when we first arrived, we were milling around in the reception areas (hallway) for five or ten minutes more than was entirely comfortable. However, this was simply down to the fact that the maître d' character was already involved in seemingly complicated negotiations with some arriving Czech customers. When whatever the issue was had been resolved, he breezily ushered us to our table in the front section of the restaurant (front room) and was an embodiment of courteous, discrete hospitality. The slightly shabby 70s décor, complete with imposing portraits of various Czech dignitaries, created a pleasing air of cold war intrigue.

The menu was large and complicated, but made navigable by the helpfully detailed English translations. While deciding what to order, we asked for a round of Budvars, which at £3 a pint jug must be about the cheapest pint going of this excellent lager in London. After we had ordered our starters, I asked the waiter his advice on the main, letting him know that I was thinking about the wild boar. He enthusiastically endorsed my choice, before disappearing to replenish our drinks. My starter was also porcine in nature. Described as simply “brawn” in the menu, it was a vastly proportioned terrine of what I assume was boiled and baked pig cheek, accompanied by a small garnish of green leaf and pickles. It was excellent; a robust mixture of coarse and smooth artery hardening textures, with a smoky, honest earthiness.

My main of roast wild boar and dumplings took the form of two thick, medallions of the animal, neither under or over-cooked, and covered in a heavy layer of a rich white sauce. Czech dumplings look like slices of undercooked French bread, but in fact a more accurate comparison would be to Chinese steamed buns or bagels; doughy and yielding, and a delicious if heavy mop with which to soak up the liquid on the plate. The others where all happy with their choices too: two goulash and one chicken schnitzel-type affair. The repeat orders of Budvar, combined with the vastly proportioned dishes had resulted in all of us feeling like force-fed geese (also available on the menu), but in a good way. Overcoming the fear that any sudden movement would result in a burst at the seams, we just about made it through to the bar (the dining room?) for one more drink; the regulars looked like they were just warming up for the evening.

I can’t remember how much we paid (I must start keeping the receipts) but I am sure that we all felt it was really very good value and very good food. Never having set foot on Czech soil, I can’t vouch for its authenticity. All I can say is that I hope that if I ever do go to the Czech Republic I will be fed equally well.

Czech Club Restaurant Ltd.

74 West End Lane
West Hampstead
London NW6 2LX
Tel: 0207 372 1193